In the small mountain town of Descanso stands a building with more than 100 years of history woven into its walls. Built in 1920 by Billy Ryan, the structure has served many purposes over the decades — from a general store and Julian Stage Stop to a bustling restaurant beginning in the 1940s. Today, it’s known as Descanso Junction, a beloved hub where community and history meet.
Owners Tammy Cooker and her husband, Brett, took over the restaurant in 2003. At the time, they knew little about Descanso but quickly fell in love with the beauty of the area and the promise of small-town life.
“My vision was that we would know all the customers and become not only friends but a meeting place for all to feel welcome,” Tammy Cooker said. “Little did we know what a unique part of San Diego we were to become a part of. The community was so warm and welcoming.”
The couple’s new venture came with risks. The restaurant had been closed for six months and had seen five different owners in just seven years. Despite concerns, they invested their life savings into remodeling and reopened the doors — only to face the Cedar Fire just three weeks later.
“I will never forget that first night when they closed the 8 freeway down,” she said.
With no power, the couple served coffee and sandwiches to stranded travelers. As flames crested the mountain behind the building, they helped lead families to safety. The restaurant survived, saved in part by local firefighters and neighbors.
“This is when we truly saw what this community was made of,” she said.
Over the years, Descanso Junction has continued to evolve while remaining deeply rooted in the town’s identity.
In 2013, the restaurant underwent a major renovation with help from the community. Local ranchers and the Olaf Wieghorst Museum contributed to what became known as an “Old-Fashioned Barn Raising,” adding handcrafted tables, a new bar, and branded décor honoring more than 20 ranches in the region.
When the COVID-19 pandemic hit in 2020, many restaurants closed their doors for good. But once again, Descanso Junction leaned on community support to endure. With PPP funding and donated landscaping, the owners created “The Junction Outback,” a hidden backyard venue featuring live bands, BBQ buffets, and family-friendly concerts every weekend.
“If anything, good came out of COVID, it was the Outback,” she said. “Someone called it the hidden gem of the mountains.”
Today, the restaurant faces another hurdle — this time from Caltrans. In February, the agency informed the owners that the restaurant’s parking lot lies within the freeway right-of-way. For a century, visitors have parked both along the street and in the lot, but no parking signs have now been installed across the street, and Caltrans plans to reduce the restaurant’s parking space to just six parallel spaces.
Even more concerning, no disabled spaces are currently included in the plan, raising accessibility issues not only for the restaurant but also for neighboring shops, vendors, and the Trading Post across the way.
The husband-and-wife team has been working with State Sen. Brian Jones, Assemblyman Carl DeMaio, and County Supervisor Joel Anderson’s office, and Andrew Hayes to address the issue. Jones has placed a temporary hold on the proposed changes while pursuing legislation to reclassify State Highway 79 back to Old Highway 80, which would shift control to the county and allow for lowering the speed limit through what has long been a dangerous stretch of road, she said.
“To try to offset the potential loss, we’ve already removed the horseshoe pits we spent thousands of dollars building so we could create more parking in the back,” she said. “It’s another costly adjustment, but we’re determined to keep going.”
The restaurant’s role as a gathering place is echoed by others in town.
“We love the Descanso Junction restaurant. The owners, Brett and Tammy, have a huge impact on our community and do everything they can to keep it going. All of the antique shops on both sides of the Junction offer great, unique, one-of-a-kind gifts. We love our community,” said Barby Wohlrabe, owner of Heirlooms Goods and Gifts in Descanso.
Despite the hardships of fire, economic struggles, and a global pandemic, Descanso Junction continues to stand as a place where neighbors connect.
Tammy Cooker summed it up simply: “Most businesses are only looking forward to AI order-your-own food off a tablet and less human connection. We strive to bring back the past, where families gather around the table to reconnect. A place where everybody knows your name.”
For more information about Descanso Junction, call (619) 971-6556.
